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Author Topic: How To: Never forget to flip your kill switch back to run.  (Read 1438 times)
pondtunes
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« on: April 20, 2012, 12:24:09 PM »

Maybe everyone in the world doesn't have this happen but it seems like every four wheeler I've ever had I (or someone else) will hit the kill switch and I'll spend 5-10 minutes trying to diagnose why the thing won't start! Only to figure out that the kill switch is flipped.

Anyways so what i'm doing here is replacing the slide style kill switch with a momentary push button on my Arctic Cat 650 H1, the idea behind the momentary switch is when I release the switch the kill switch goes back to the run position.

Other brands may be similar but what you'll need for this project:
Wire Strippers
Solder/Soldering Iron or other connector (room is tight I recommend solder)
Tape/Heat Shrink
Phillips Screw Driver
Momentary Push Button ( with NC OR NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACTS)


First start by removing your kill switch assembly on the handlebars, mine was held in with two phillips screws the shorter one is closer to the seat.
once you get the two screws out the whole assembly should come off and look like this inside:
There are two smaller phillips screws holding the white plastic retainer in place, take these screws out and remove the retainer.



Once the retainer is out of the way you should see the kill switch and wires, here the two wires we need are the orange ones on the left (one over the other)
You can pull the red slide switch out easily enough but the plate where the wires are soldered in may require feeding some more slack into the assembly.




The wiring harness was secured on mine with a small zip tie, cut this tie and you can then slide the rubber grommet down the harness and free up some slack.


Slide the grommet down out of the way you'll be sliding the switch housing down after it so leave yourself plenty of room.



Next work the contacts for the kill switch and reverse override switch out of their slots, the reverse override switch will come out with the button attached.



Slide the switch housing down the wiring harness until you can comfortably work on the orange wires soldered to the switch terminals.



Strip back the insulation on the orange wire and orange with white stripe remember you need the two that are grouped together NOT the orange w/ white strip that is by itself, if you look at the terminal block there's a diode that disables the starter button when the kill switch is off. If you hook to that wire your new kill switch won't shut the engine down just disable the start button.



If your switch came with wires then simply connect one to each of the orange wires that you previously stripped back. If not you'll need to solder some wires to your switch as well.


Leads from the momentary switch soldered to the orange and orange w/ white stripe wires.. Note it doesen't matter which way you hook up the switch or which of your lead wires goes to which orange wire the end result will be the same.



Next tape/seal/heat shrink your connections, I also recommend running a bit of electrical tape over the connections on the switch terminals just for insurance.


Now is time to re-assemble, start by using a small screwdriver and removing the yellow button from the reverse override. It comes out pretty easy with the button attached but it's quite difficult to put it back on with the yellow button attached.


Push the reverse override switch down into the switch housing and secure it with the shorter phillips screw (we aren't going to put the plastic retainer or long screw back in save them in case you ever want to return it to stock)


With the reverse override switch installed you can now put the yellow part of the button back on from the outside easily.


Your kill switch will go through the square hole in the housing here, and should clear the switch terminal block easily. Work your wires back down into the housing so everything is nice and tight again.



Next slide the rubber grommet back in place and secure it with a zip tie, it has a flat side so make sure you align it right.



Put the housing back around the bars and re install the screws, leave them a little loose until you are completely done. My switch had a gap on either side so i'm going to seal it with a little RTV.


Smear a liberal amount of rtv around the button and work it down into the hole to completely seal it. The stuff will wipe off with a clean towel easily.


Wipe off the excess RTV around the switch and then tighten your switch housing screws.

Now the bike will start just like it always did but when you press and hold the kill switch the engine will shut down. Once you release the button the engine will start again. Keep in mind you have to hold the switch until the engine completely stops otherwise it might fire back up.. (just the same as if you were to flip the kill switch off/on quickly.
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East Coast ATV Riders
« on: April 20, 2012, 12:24:09 PM »

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lilEiger
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« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2012, 05:26:41 AM »

great idea! ive seen this plague folks many times out on the trails! i might have to try this one out when i get back, simple but genius!
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« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2012, 06:11:14 AM »

Thanks for the writeup I've been there a time or 2 myself lol.

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« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2012, 10:52:43 PM »

ride a kick start bike a few times, you will not forget again lol.  nice write up though.
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pondtunes
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« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2012, 05:25:36 PM »

Hehe my 87 banshee was a kick start and I still had this stupid problem occasionally.  As dumb as it sounds it still will get me from time to time!


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